If your home has elevated radon levels—or you suspect it might—you'll encounter two distinct services: radon testing and radon mitigation. Understanding the difference, and knowing when you need each, can protect your family's health and potentially save you thousands of dollars.
Radon Testing: The First Step
Radon testing determines the concentration of radon gas in your home's air. Because radon is colorless, odorless, and tasteless, testing is the only way to know if you have a problem. The EPA recommends testing every home, regardless of location.
Types of Radon Tests
Short-Term Testing (2-7 Days):
- Best for: Quick screening, real estate transactions
- Method: Charcoal canisters or continuous radon monitors (CRMs)
- Our Approach: We use professional CRMs that provide hourly readings and tamper-evident results
Long-Term Testing (90+ Days):
- Best for: Most accurate annual average
- Method: Alpha track detectors
- Recommendation: Use after short-term test shows borderline results (2-4 pCi/L)
Professional vs. DIY Testing
Hardware store test kits can provide a general indication, but professional testing offers significant advantages:
- Continuous Monitoring: Our CRMs take hourly readings for 48+ hours, showing how levels fluctuate
- Tamper-Evidence: Required for real estate transactions—buyers won't accept DIY results
- Proper Placement: Testing in the wrong location or under wrong conditions gives inaccurate results
- Immediate Results: We provide readings within 48-72 hours with a full report
Understanding Your Test Results
When your test results come back, here's how to interpret them:
- Below 2.0 pCi/L: No action required. Retest every 2-5 years or after major renovations.
- 2.0 – 3.9 pCi/L: Consider mitigation. The World Health Organization recommends action at 2.7 pCi/L.
- 4.0 pCi/L or Higher: EPA recommends taking action. Mitigation is strongly advised.
- 8.0 pCi/L or Higher: Urgent action needed. This is equivalent radiation exposure to 200+ chest X-rays per year.
In Idaho, with average levels around 7.3 pCi/L, many homes fall into the "action required" category.
Radon Mitigation: The Solution
Radon mitigation is the process of reducing radon concentrations in your home to safe levels. The most common and effective method is called Active Soil Depressurization (ASD).
How ASD Radon Mitigation Works
- Suction Point Creation: We drill a hole through your basement floor or crawl space to create a suction point below the slab.
- PVC Pipe Installation: A 3-4 inch PVC pipe runs from the suction point to above the roofline of your home.
- Radon Fan Installation: A specialized, quiet radon fan creates negative pressure under the slab, drawing radon gas up the pipe.
- Above-Roof Discharge: Radon gas is safely vented above the roofline where it quickly dissipates to harmless levels.
- Pressure Monitoring: A U-tube manometer is installed so you can visually verify the system is working.
Types of Mitigation Systems
Sub-Slab Depressurization (Most Common): For homes with concrete slab foundations or basements. The suction point is drilled through the concrete floor.
Sub-Membrane Depressurization: For homes with crawl spaces. A heavy-duty vapor barrier is installed over the dirt floor, then suction is applied beneath the membrane.
Block Wall Suction: For homes with hollow concrete block foundations. Suction is applied to the hollow cores of the block wall.
Mitigation Effectiveness
Professional radon mitigation is highly effective. According to the EPA:
- 80-99% reduction in radon levels is typical
- Most homes can achieve levels below 2.0 pCi/L
- Systems begin working immediately upon installation
- Results are verified with post-mitigation testing
Cost Comparison: Testing vs. Mitigation
Radon Testing:
- Professional CRM Test: $150-$250 (includes full report and consultation)
- DIY Test Kit: $15-$40 (less accurate, not accepted for real estate)
Radon Mitigation:
- Standard ASD System: $800-$2,500 depending on home size and complexity
- Crawl Space Mitigation: Often combined with encapsulation for comprehensive protection
When to Test vs. When to Mitigate
You Need Testing If:
- You've never tested your home
- You're buying or selling a home
- It's been 2+ years since your last test
- You've made significant renovations
You Need Mitigation If:
- Test results are 4.0 pCi/L or higher
- Results are 2-4 pCi/L and you have health concerns
- You're pregnant or have young children
- Anyone in the home smokes (radon + smoking is especially dangerous)
Why Use a Drainage Company for Radon?
Most radon mitigation companies only install radon systems. We're different—we understand the entire below-grade environment:
- Integrated Solutions: We often combine radon mitigation with crawl space encapsulation for maximum air quality improvement
- Sub-Slab Expertise: We work under homes every day with basement drainage and sump pump installation—we know how air and water move through Boise's soil
- Sealed System Design: Proper encapsulation actually improves radon system performance by reducing air leakage
Ready to test? Schedule a radon test and know for sure.
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